Monday, January 09, 2006

Surf's up


Disclaimer: I'm not sure who that chick is surfing...I just liked her board.

I went surfing today with my roomate Jessica and we were so stoked! The rains have stopped (for now), the sun was shining, and the tide was excellent. A perfect day to bob on my board, listen to the sea lions barking, watch the pelicans dive-bomb for fish, and just basically enjoy the sun and the ocean.

I got WORKED!!!!

Man, oh man, the waves were crazy. Jessica and I both caught a wave or two but then after that...forget it! The sets would come in fast and furious, grops of 15 or more waves in a row. Which is great if you've caught a wave and are riding it in...not so great when you're trying to paddle back out and you keep getting pushed back again and again by all the waves.

And then the waves started having major fun with me. I was being thrown off my board, my board would go flying over my head, I would be trapped UNDER my board, and one time I was under my board (after a crazy wave) and my leash was strangling me around my neck! What the heck? I have never surfed in water this nuts before. To cap everything off, I once again got flung from my board during a huge wave and my board flew and hit some guy right off his wave AND board. Ahh! I felt SO bad. He was super cool about it, but I still felt horrible.

I think I might wait till the waves get calmer and steadier before I go out again. These were a bit too wild for me.

SURF'S UP!! Big time.

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